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图1:奇迹奇迹,真的是奇迹,是水库,真的是水库!

 
图2:我到现在都没搞明白,这水究竟从哪里来的呢?

(这地方不好找,也没啥游人,那天风大得把衣服裤子都吹得鼓鼓满满的,吸一口气好象灌了满嘴沙子,我和老猫仍然顶风冒沙走上堤坝,看着周围的石头山,看着山坳坳里的绿水,感觉象被啥给忽悠来着。)

 

图3:回到路上,几只山羊和我们抢道呢。

 
图4:这就是Sinkhole.

接下来我们去的这地方叫Sinkhole,离沙利姆家很近,是一个新开发的公园,周围种着很多树,有门卫,但并没有收费,也没有任何资料提供给你看。

进去公园后,走不太远就可看到一圈矮矮的围墙,在围墙外围的任何角度都可以看到那个“洞”,围墙有个缺口,有水泥台阶从这个缺口直通坑底,可接触到水面。水面颜色变化很大,深的地方象海军蓝,浅的地方清澈透亮,还可以看到寸长的小鱼游来游去。不知道这坑洞何时出现的,只知道是地震造成的这个坑,海水充满那个“洞”,很深很深。

在这地方遇到三个中国人,妈妈在新加坡,女儿女婿在迪拜工作,长周末女婿开车带大家出来玩。妈妈有70多岁了,精神很好,去过加拿大的班芙,认为班芙的山水比这儿的山水好看多了。

 

图5:我下到坑底,尝了一下那水,真是咸的。

 
图6:从公路桥上往下看,这就是我们去Wadi Shab的必经之路。

因为时间有限,我们决定不去Wadi Tiwi了。在去 Wadi Shab时经过Tiwi村,路断,汽车过不去,好在沙利姆确实很熟悉这一带,他开车绕出去后又开进另一个村庄,七转八转,感觉都没路了,他一拐弯到了一座桥下,这下真没路了,车停在那儿,坐船过河吧。

根据我们看到的简短资料,说这地方Walk进去,就可Swim,以为坐船过河下船走几步路就可以跳进水里游了,哎哎哎,不是那么回事。

过河下船后要走约45分钟的路,问题是这路不是平路,是山路,先是在鹅卵石的河床上歪歪扭扭地走,然后在石头山上凿出的小道上躬腰驼背走(凿的山道太矮),后来就根本没路了,全在山石上爬上爬下,老猫背着一个包,拎着一个包,我是背着一个包,拎着一个香鸡,两人都爬得满脑门子汗,沙利姆穿着拖鞋走在前面,他就根本没出汗,真是一方水土养一方人。

早知道是这么“走”路的话,有些东西就完全可以丢在车上不拿了,没后悔药吃啊。

 

图7:先坐船过河。

 

图8:猜不出这渡船老头的年龄,应该七老八十了吧,船开得很不利落,眼睛好象也有问题。我给他照相时他会油墨地说要1 RO一张。(渡船过河约2分钟,每人收费0.250 RO.)

 

图9:刚过河的这一节路还好走。

 

图10:后面一节路程全是在这些石头上攀爬,有时我不得不先把香鸡放上去了,自己再爬上去,从另一边蹭下去后,再把香鸡拿下来。

 

图11:一汪清流。

 

图12:已有三三两两先到的游客在这里游泳晒太阳。

 
图13:老猫找了个无人地方换上游泳裤下水了,我虽带了泳衣,看看周围光秃秃的山石,无遮无挡,实在没勇气换两次衣衣服,就让老猫过把瘾算了。

 

图14:看吧,就是在地方,石头山里的清泉。

 
图15:“法拉几”(Falaj),这个词司机沙利姆念叨了好几遍我都没明白,后来他指给我看,才知道原来是引水的小沟渠。接下来的两天,又看到几处“法拉几”。

 
图16:沙拉姆绕道走到新修的盘山公路的高处,指给我们看马斯喀特的新城。

在回城的路上我对沙利姆说,肚子饿了,在他知道的最近的餐馆或小吃店停下,必须吃饱了才能继续干革命。

结果是沙利姆把我们带到他家里吃的便饭。

 
这天和沙利姆处得挺愉快,决定接下来的两天继续按同一价钱雇他,约好第2天8:30am离开酒店去Nizwa,皆大欢喜。

回到酒店冲凉收拾好所有的东西后,老猫说:走,我们去对面的五星级酒店(InterContinental)喝酒去。我说:阿曼可以喝酒吗?老猫说:看看去呗,有就喝嘛。

图17:大剧院(Opera House)一角。

一切顺利,啥酒都有。两人要了一盘鸡翅,一碟花生米,灌了三大杯啤酒,其间电视正播一场英式橄榄球,酒吧里80%都是英国人,有个美国人过来和我们聊天,原来他太太是个中国人,东北的,他以为我们住在马斯喀特,想给他太太找同伴。

喝完酒后,去看酒店附近的大剧院。据说这剧院是中东最好的歌剧院,内装潢很是华丽,平日不开放,只有在有演出时买票进去观赏。我们在马斯喀特的三天都没有演出,没能进去,只好在外面走了半圈。

 

图18:我们在马斯喀特住了3晚的Beach Hotel。

 
     
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